Alausí: Life Along the Tracks

Yesterday, we left Riobamba and continued south toward Cuenca, following the E35, better known as the Pan-American Highway, which stretches from Alaska to Ushuaia, Argentina. We had two planned stops along the way: Alausí and Ingapirca. Today’s pictures are from Alausí; Ingapirca, Ecuador’s most important Inca ruins, will follow later.

Nestled in the Andean highlands, Alausí is a charming town with colonial streets, Indigenous heritage, and stunning mountain landscapes—features common in many villages throughout the Central Andes. However, what truly distinguishes Alausí is the Nariz del Diablo (Devil’s Nose) train ride, once considered one of the most daring railway journeys in the world.

Built in the early 1900s, this engineering feat zigzags down the steep slopes of the Andes, offering incredible views of the stunning landscape. Unfortunately, train operations were suspended in 2020 due to financial difficulties exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic, which led to the closure of Ecuador’s national railway company. The exciting news is that the Alausí-Nariz del Diablo route is expected to reopen later this year, and we can't wait to experience this legendary ride once again. 

Our guide, Jorge, who has been fantastic throughout this journey, made this stop even more special. Thanks to his connections, we had the unique opportunity to enter the locomotive and engage in a fascinating conversation with one of the last train engineers. His passion for the train was undeniable—we even saw it reflected in the small coffee shop his wife runs next to the station, filled with railway memorabilia.

It’s a shame we were just a few weeks or months too early to experience this legendary ride firsthand.