Highlands of Northern Ecuador: Between Cayambe and Zuleta

Cayambe – Ice on the Equator, Farms in the Highlands

​Just before arriving, we passed through the town of Cayambe, set at an altitude of 2,830 meters. The cool, crisp air was a noticeable shift from the humid lowlands—and a welcome one.

Cayambe is a working highland town, surrounded by dairy farms and flower plantations, and is famous across Ecuador for its biscochos, a traditional buttery biscuit often served with dulce de leche or cheese.

But what really draws the eye in this image is the snow-capped peak rising in the distance: Cayambe Volcano. At 5,790 meters, it's Ecuador's third-highest mountain, and it holds a unique geographical claim—its southern slope is the highest point on the equator and the only spot along the equator with permanent snow cover.

The contrast is striking: quiet rooftops in the foreground, a patchwork of fields climbing the hills, and beyond it all, that icy peak watching over the valley. In black and white, the light and shadows across the landscape take center stage, highlighting the shapes, textures, and patterns that make this region so visually rich.

The Rabbit Trail: A Hike to Remember at Hacienda Zuleta

​Don't be fooled by the name—the Rabbit Trail is far from a gentle walk. Starting at Hacienda Zuleta, it ascends steeply into the mountains, reaching up to 3,140 meters above sea level. The climb can be tough in parts, but the panoramic views—expansive valleys, distant ridgelines, and the vastness of the Andean landscape—make it worthwhile.

The real adventure begins on the descent. The trail narrows and becomes slippery, especially after rain, requiring careful footing. Along the way, we passed several earth mounds built by the Caranqui culture, who inhabited this region from 700 to 1500 CE. These truncated pyramids and ceremonial platforms served rituals, residential, and astronomical purposes. Today, they are overgrown with grass, which surprisingly helps preserve them.

Eventually, we reached Cóndor Huasi, a small conservation effort aimed at protecting the Andean condor—one of the world's largest flying birds and a cultural symbol in the Andes. We met a French biologist dedicated to safeguarding these endangered birds in Ecuador. His enthusiasm and expertise brought the project to life in a personal and insightful way.

Afterward, we walked about 3 km on a cobblestone path back to the hacienda. The mostly flat route gave our legs a rest after the climb. After nearly five hours on the trail, we arrived hungry, tired, and satisfied—just in time for a late lunch.

This photo was taken along the trail, looking down into one of the steep valleys characteristic of this part of the Ecuadorian highlands. I converted it to black and white to emphasize the textures and natural lines of the landscape. Without color, the emphasis shifts to light, shape, and depth—elements often overshadowed in a more colorful scene.